Kelvin on the crux pitch of Direct North Buttress, Merriam Peak.
Our car-to-car attempt took 21 hours, covering a total distance of over 20 miles, 5000ft of elevation gain, and 8 pitches of stellar climbing. This is probably the most ambitious thing I’ve ever done, and it wouldn’t be possible without my partner and his incredible psyche.
The timing of our pilgrimage to the Incredible Hulk couldn’t be better - three days of good weather window flanked by rain and thunderstorms. This was my first time in the Sawtooth Range and as a climber, it was natural to just stare at those granite towers and drool. Marc and I climbed the super classic Sunspot Dihedral, a route that ascents the left side of the Hulk and passes over a distinct patch of orange granite (ie. the Sunspot). It was the most challenging climb I have done in the alpine - long, sustained and hard. But heck, I can’t wait to go back!